Gastronomic Event

In March, ELC held an event at the European Parliament in Brussels to demonstrate to MEPs the power of additives. Hosted by MEP Horst Schnellhardt, more than 50 MEPs and their assistants, plus a number of representatives of the European Commission and the German Presidency, came along to listen to the renowned French molecular gastronomist Hervé This give a fascinating display about the power of chemistry in cooking. They were then treated to a ‘molecular buffet’ prepared by renowned chef Felix Allen, and had a chance to chat with the numerous industry representatives who were also present.

The evening began with an address from ELC president Jean-Claude Attale, who explained to the audience that it is thanks to the use of high-quality food ingredients that the food industry is able to meet consumer demand. ‘Food ingredients provide consumers with both healthy and extensive choices that cater for regional, national and ethnic preferences,’ he said. ‘Many everyday foods would not exist without certain food ingredients.’

He also stressed the importance of the food industry – Europe’s largest manufacturing sector – to economic growth and sustainable development. ‘Food ingredient manufacturers have played an important role in the achievement of European food excellence,’ he added. ‘For continued competition and growth, European regulation of the food ingredient industry should be necessary, effective and allow for clear implementation. Approval procedures should not be too lengthy nor impose unnecessary administrative burdens, which hamper innovation and development.’

The ‘business end’ of the evening was a talk from French molecular gastronomist Hervé This, complete with demonstrations of scientific cookery. He works at the French Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique, and gave an energetic presentation about the chemistry of cooking. He expressed his bemusement that an egg white is actually yellow, and his amazement at the way it magically turns white when it’s cooked. ‘This is a miracle!’ he said.

Some of the PhD projects he has ongoing at the INRA are looking at the chemistry of cooking in very close detail. For example, one student has been investigating carrot stocks for three years, using NMR spectroscopy to look at the chemical components, many of which are different sugars such as sucrose, fructose and glucose. Another is studying the colour of green beans. And then there’s the complexity of fat-based systems such as sauces and mousses. ‘We will be able to create a brilliant culinary future through chemistry,’ he claimed.

MEP host Horst Schnellhardt concluded the more formal part of the event, saying that he is always amazed that there is so much mystery with food additives. ‘The EU has changed,’ he said. ‘Now EFSA tests all additives, and gives authorisation. What we want to achieve is less bureaucracy, and products authorised so companies don’t have to reapply for permits every so often.’

The evening ended with a gastronomic extravaganza – a wide range of dishes prepared by chef Felix Alen and his team to demonstrate some of the ideas described by Hervé This, and show what can be done with food ingredients. The ‘Tomorrow’s Daily Food’ buffet was arranged in six areas, focused on textures, mousses, spheres, vacuum & cold, gels and desserts.

The guacamole with lemon grass mousse and minced langoustines in the Textures section, for example, showed how the ascorbic acid – vitamin C – in lemon juice prevents fruit like avocados from going brown in the air. The roulades of smoked Saxe ham fillet with a morel tapenade and Banyul pearls in the Mousses buffet used alginates to create the pearls from Banyul wine. And the entire Desserts menu used colours, showing the important part a food’s colour has in the eating experience.

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